Gorilla Trekking
Searching for gorillas in the misty mountain air of volca¬noes can be likened to an adventurous game of “hide and seek in which the guides know where they were yesterday but must find their trail again today and follow it. Finding gorillas can almost be guaranteed for those willing to hike one to four hours or more in search of them.
Each group of visitors is led by a park guide and one tracker. Porters may be hired to carry lunch, drinks, etc, and to assist anyone who may wish to return early.
The search often involves climbing down into gullies, then mulling you up steep hills by holding onto vines and bam¬boo. Even though the pace is slow, you must be in good condition to keep up; the search may take you to altitudes of 7500 to over 10 000 feet. While this sounds difficult, almost anyone in good physical condition, without a heart problem, can do it.
Once the gorilla group has been located, the guide commu¬nicates with them by making low grunting sounds and imitates them by picking and chewing bits of foliage. Juvenile gorillas are often found playing and tend to approach within a few feet of their human guests. Occasionally our guides had to keep them from jumping into our laps!
Adult females are a little more cautious but may still ap¬proach within several feet of you. The dominant male, called a silverback because of the silvery-grey hair on his back, usually keeps more than 20 feet (6 m) from his human visitors.
Gorilla-viewing “etiquette” is important. Do not make eye contact with a silverback. If a silverback begins to act aggres¬sively, look down immediately and take a submissive posture by squatting or sitting, or he may take your staring as aggres¬sion and charge. The key is to follow the directions of your well-trained guide. Gorillas are herbivores (vegetarians) and will not attack a human unless provoked. Please do not touch the gorillas as they are very susceptible to catching human colds and diseases.
After spending up to 60 minutes visiting with these magnificent animals, visitors descend to a more open area for a picnic lunch.
The five groups currently visited by tourists have been numbered or named by the researchers studying them. Gorilla Groups 9, 11, 13 and Group Sabyinyo may be visited by up to six tourists each day, and Group Susa may be visited by up to eight.
Visitors to Group 11 meet at the Visoke departure point, Group 13 at Karandaryi, Group Susa at Gashinga or Cundura, and Group Sabyinyo between Karandaryi and Kinigi.
Group 9 divides its time between Rwanda and Zaire. Permits or all groups can be booked in advance of arrival to the park, children less than 15 years of age are not allowed to visit the gorillas.
Visitors must check in at Park Headquarters near Kinigivillage, about a 45-minute drive from Ruhengeri, between 7:00-8:00 a.m. Be sure to have your voucher before making the 30-40 minute (up to tenlO-mi./16 km) drive to departure points where the searches begin. Visitors must meet their guides at desig¬nated departure points no later than 9:00 a.m.
The most popular time to visit the gorillas is during the dry seasons, mid-June-September and December-March.
The park was temporarily closed due to unrest in the country. However, as of this writing, the park is open to international visitors. Check with an Africa travel specialist (see page 525) for current information.
Use 400 ASA film or higher as gorillas are often found in the shadow of the forest. You will probably want to “push” 400 ASA to 800 ASA to get enough light. Many trekkers use 1000 and 1600 ASA films are used by many trekkers. Bring several rolls of film on the trek — you very well may need it!
Mornings are almost always cool and misty; even if it doesn’t rain, you will undoubtedly get wet from hiking and crawling around wet vegetation. Wear a waterproof jacket (or poncho) and pants (preferably gortex), leather gloves to protect your hands from stinging nettles, waterproof light or medium weight hiking boots to give you traction on muddy slopes and to keep your feet dry, wool socks and wool hat. Bring a waterproof pouch for your camera and plenty of film, water bottle and snacks. Do not wear bright clothes, perfumes, colognes or jewelry as these distractions may excite the gorillas.
Visiting the gorillas is one of the most expensive yet most rewarding safaris in Africa. However, the park fees, which are among the highest in Africa, go toward the preservation of these magnificent, endangered creatures. It is very difficult to get to the park and departure points unless you join a tour (the best option) or rent your own vehicle (expensive). There is no public transportation from Ruhengeri to the Park Headquar¬ters or to the trek departure points.
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